Issue #2 Alex Stevens
The thrill of the hunt, the art of collecting, and why Cartier London remains the ultimate grail.
Inside This Week’s Full Set:
Hidden Gems & Collector’s Instincts – Vintage watch dealer Alex Stevens shares the wildest finds of his career, why untouched originals are gold, and where the market is heading next.
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The Making of a Watch Dealer
Alex Stevens’ journey into the world of vintage watches started earlier than most. Growing up surrounded by antiques and collectables, he was introduced to auctions, markets, and trade fairs by his father, a book dealer and collector. By the age of 14, he had already bought and sold his first vintage watch—an experience that set him on a lifelong path in horology.
Based in London, Alex has spent years refining his expertise, traveling extensively across Europe, attending trade shows, and working with collectors, private individuals, and dealers worldwide. He honed his skills working with one of London’s leading vintage watch specialists before founding Alex Stevens Vintage in 2020. Today, he is known for his keen eye, personal approach, and ability to source the rarest, most well-preserved vintage pieces.
The Art of the Unexpected Find
For Alex, collecting isn’t just about the watches—it’s about the stories, the thrill, and the gut instinct honed over years in the business. And sometimes, the best finds come out of nowhere.
“Probably a blue ‘Soleil’ dial Speedmaster I found on a trip to Europe,” he recalls. “A gentleman just pulled it out of his bag—it was completely original and untouched, exactly how you want to find them.”
But that’s just one of many. A lapis lazuli dial Audemars Piguet “Cobra” found in a basement among 40 ordinary watches. Cartier London Tanks appearing on eBay, or even a Normale in pieces from the back of a jeweler’s shop. For Alex, the hunt is never over.
Finding the Diamonds in the Rough
Stevens has built a reputation on sourcing some of the most desirable vintage pieces. His approach? Follow instinct, trust the details, and never underestimate the power of a road trip.
“I still love getting on the road, going to fairs, handling watches in person,” he says. “But today, so much happens remotely—WhatsApp groups, messages flying in at all hours. An absolute gem can appear on my phone at any moment.”
When it comes to spotting winners, Alex looks for signs most would ignore. “Scratched glasses, filthy cases, worn-out straps—these are good signs. I love finding honest watches that haven’t been messed with.”
The One That Got Away
Every dealer has a watch they regret letting go. For Alex, one stands out.
“A very special Cartier pocket watch in steel, from the early 1930s, retailed by Cartier New York, with a jaw-dropping black sector dial. Fortunately, it went to a very good collection in New York, so I know where it is, but I highly doubt I’ll ever be able to buy it back.”
That’s the reality of the business. “There are many more, but I often have to remind myself that this is how I earn my living—if I kept them all, I’d have no business!”
Cartier London: A Favorite Find for Alex
Few names carry the same mystique in vintage collecting as Cartier London. And for Alex, it was love at first sight.
“I was about 17 or 18, working as an apprentice in auctions when I first encountered them,” he says. “Learning to identify them by their dial fonts, hallmarks, and numbering—it all clicked for me.”
What makes them special? Rarity, imagination, and an era of craftsmanship that’s impossible to replicate. “Unlike many of today’s ‘blue-chip’ collectible watches, these were handmade in the hundreds. They retained Cartier’s DNA while pushing creative boundaries. That decade of London production is the pinnacle, in my opinion.”
What about the future of watch collecting?
The vintage watch world has changed drastically over the last decade, and Alex sees it heading in a bold new direction.
“Gold bracelets, gem-set pieces, jewellery watches—these are where I see things moving,” he explains. “Men and women alike are styling watches as jewellery, not just timepieces. Look at Timothée Chalamet wearing a gem-set Cartier Baignoire bangle to the Oscars or a Cartier Libre Féline pendant as a bow tie. The traditional rulebook is being torn up, and I love it.”
Advice for New Collectors: Handle Everything
If you’re looking to start collecting, Alex has one piece of advice: Get hands-on experience.
“Go to auction viewings, collector meet-ups, fairs—handle as many watches as possible,” he says. “And when you’re ready to buy, find a reputable dealer and build rapport. Condition is everything. Forget box and papers—always buy the best example you can find.”
The Dream 3-Watch Collection
If Alex had to curate the perfect trio, he’d keep it classic, elegant, and just a little unexpected:
Daily wearer: Rolex Daytona 6265 or 6239 with a panda dial. Timeless and versatile.
Special occasion piece: Cartier London Octagonal. Iconic design with character.
Wildcard: Asymmetric tridor (three-color gold) Rolex Cellini “King Midas.” Because sometimes, you need a curveball.
Follow Alex’s journey: Alex Stevens vintage