Issue #8 – With Tom from Montres et Vintage

Meet the Watch Dealer Who Built an Empire—Alone

Apr 24, 2025

Inside This Week’s Full Set:

We sit down with Tom—the discerning eye behind Montres et Vintage—to talk gut picks, hidden gems, and the beauty of collecting without compromise. From a Seiko quartz to a Piaget double-signature, this is a story about instinct, soul, and the eternal chase.

Where It All Began

Tom's journey started not in auctions or ateliers, but with a personal ritual: changing the battery in his father's Seiko Quartz Sport 100 at age 16. "I cleaned it carefully and felt this deep satisfaction," he recalls. That small act of care ignited something much larger. With a background in both jewelry and watchmaking, Tom’s path was always destined to orbit beauty, precision, and emotion.

"There’s a strong connection between fine jewelry and horology," he says. "Both require soul. Both demand emotion."

The One-Man Operation

Montres et Vintage isn’t backed by a team or agency—it’s Tom, and Tom alone. From shooting the watches to building the website, he does it all. "I really started from zero," he says. "But that’s part of the charm. Every detail is mine."

It’s not just about curation. It’s craftsmanship, independence, and a deep love for the hunt.

From Gut Feeling to Grail Hunting

Montres et Vintage has become a destination for those chasing rare references and unique stories. Tom credits his success to instinct over analytics. "I go with my gut. That’s what gives the collection its personality," he says. But passion alone isn’t enough—he’s also tuned into trends, sourcing through auctions, collector meetups, and hushed dinners among aficionados.

One unforgettable moment? Finding an Enicar Sherpa Graph Mk1 during a house clearance. "The owner was kind. He told me stories. Then he brought out a small box…and there it was. Pristine. Magical." It wasn’t just about the watch—it was about the man, the moment, the memory.

The Quiet Rise of Forgotten Names

Tom has a sixth sense for what's next. Lately, his radar has zeroed in on Cartier and Piaget. "These maisons have timeless savoir-faire. I’m especially drawn to Art Deco Piaget with full gold bracelets," he says. The proportions, the subtle elegance—they resonate.

Other underdogs? Bueche-Girod and double-signed dials like Piaget Asprey—quietly rising, patiently waiting to be seen for what they are: quietly audacious.

No Time for Regrets

Does he miss any of the pieces he's let go? Not really. "Unless it's a true unicorn, I don’t dwell on the past. The joy is in the rediscovery."

Each sale is just another step in the story.

Patina Over Papers

In a world chasing NOS and paperwork, Tom finds magic in honest wear. "Natural patina gives a watch soul. But when it goes too far—when it affects function or legibility—that’s where I draw the line."

Box and papers? Nice, but not everything. "Authenticity, condition, and emotional resonance matter more." A watch has to speak.

His very own box — and a nice one at that!

The Big Names, the Hidden Stories

Cartier and Patek are staples in Tom's world—but not always the expected pieces. He looks for the curveballs: unusual dials, case shapes, or overlooked editions. "Both brands blend tradition and boldness. That’s rare. That’s powerful."

It’s not about the logo. It’s about the feel.

For the New Collectors

Tom’s advice for beginners? Lead with heart. "Buy what moves you. Ignore the noise. Don’t chase trends. Collect pieces that reflect your personality."

Joy is the best provenance.

Grail Piece

His dream watch? No hesitation: Vacheron Constantin 222. "Elegant, sporty, and full of character. It has everything."

It’s the one that still makes him pause.

Tom's on the hunt for that Vacheron Constantin 222.

The Perfect Three-Watch Setup

Daily wear: Cartier Santos Ghost Ref. 2960 – refined, versatile.
Special occasions: Vacheron Constantin Jumbo 222 Ref. 44018 – understated legend.
For the love of it: Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18039 with Sapphire String Japan Disc dial – totally unique, full of soul.